Place: Jack in the Box
Item: Pannido sandwiches
Price: $4.39
Remember the dark ages before the word “cheeseburger” came to
be? We shudder to think of it. Now Jack in the Box is hoping the word “Pannido”
works into the American vocabulary the same way.
The word and the foot-long baguette-esque sandwich didn’t exist until
Jack in the Box sprung them out earlier this year. With three varieties --
Deli Trio, Zesty Turkey, and Ham and Turkey -- the Pannidos are an early sign
of Jack’s push to remodel itself literally as an upscale bistro called
JBX. The company’s most recent quarterly earnings indicate the Pannido
is catching on fast. But is it the next cheeseburger?
Tom: Chris, are you now as disappointed as I am with every
other fast food joint? The Pannido is to the usual lunch fare what a Parisian
baguette is to Wonder Bread. Don’t get me wrong, Wonder Bread has its
place—like on the outside of a brisket sandwich, but not with fine deli
meats. How come only Jack can accomplish the seemingly simple task of using
superior bread to enhance an otherwise plain sandwich?
The Pannido’s narrow crunchy-on-the-outside, chewy-on-the-inside ciabatta
reminds me of sandwiches in Northern Italy or
The concealed pickle is a true master stroke, a touch
that’s missing on the other Pannidos, which still feature meat as thick,
fresh and distinctive as the Boar’s Head at a deli counter. As I worked
my way down the plenty-for-lunch length of the Deli Trio, I spilled barely
a crumb -- both because a sandwich could not be any more neatly wrapped and
tidy to eat and because I wanted every last bit of it in my stomach.
Tom: True, the pickle was a sublime addition to the Trio’s
majestic symphony. That other great user of a pickle, the hamburger, is like
a dying kazoo bleat by comparison. If places like Jack in the Box keep pumping
out terrific non-burger lunches, the burger’s decades-long heyday will
seem further and further behind us.
Chris: Now you’re talkin’ crazy (eat the pickle,
don’t smoke it). I wouldn’t say the Pannido could ever kill the
beloved burger, but it has earned a permanent place in my lunch lexicon, right
up there with “Meximelt, “Frappuccino” and yes, “cheeseburger.”
Rating: 5 sporks (out of 5)
Food facts: Deli Trio: 645 calories, 50% from fat, 34g fat,
8.5 saturated fat, 2530mg sodium, 53g carbohydrates, 30g protein.
E-mail The Lunch Guys:
tomandchris@thelunchguys.com
even Paris (Jacque dans la Box)! Not only is the bread as unbelievably good
as its European counterparts, it’s easy to eat with one hand. The upscale
condiments, like creamy Italian-Dijon sauce and buttermilk ranch sauce, further
enhance the experience. Of the three Pannidos, the Deli Trio is the best,
followed by the Zesty Turkey with its sun-dried tomato spread. But all are
better than the cold cuts and mayonnaise in a glorified hot dog bun that we’ve
eaten elsewhere.
Chris: I’m with you, Tom, but let’s name names.
The Jack makes a better deli sandwich than Subway (not to mention a better
taco than Taco Bell and better chicken strips than KFC). But I don’t
think you’re making a big enough deal about what’s inside that
Pannido bread. After biting into the Deli Trio, I know what eating a lit stick
of dynamite must be like. KABLAM! The zingy pickle cocooned in the rolled-up
meat ignited all the flavors, with the ham, turkey, salami and Dijon sauce
exploding in little flavor blossoms. Only the toasted ciabatta contained the
blast and spared my mouth from erupting.
